A) De la Malaisie à l’Indonésie (Version en Français)

15/06/2018 – 17/06/2018

 

Aéroport de Kuala Lumpur, Malaisie

Le terminal international de l’aéroport de KL est le numéro 2. Pour vous y rendre, vous avez au minimum deux options:

  • Métro, pour 55 MYR/pp (~12€)
  • KLIA Express shuttle. On peut les trouver dans différents endroits de KL (voir maps.me) et le ticket ne coûte que 12 MYR/pp (~2,6€). Les horaires sont différents selon l’endroit du pick-up, mais ces bus couvrent environ 21 heures par jour (on vous conseille de venir un jour avant pour prendre une photo des horaires).

Nous avons bien évidemment privilégié l’option 2 et nous avons atteint l’aéroport en environ une heure, depuis la station de Pudu Sentral.


Pourquoi un vol vers Jakarta et pas Yogyakarta?

Pendant la période du 16 au 20 juin, située juste après la fin du Ramadan, les locaux ont quelques jours de congé et profitent de ce moment pour rendre visite à leurs familles qui habitent parfois à des milliers de kilomètres de chez eux. Les transports sont donc pris d’assaut et les prix ont tendance à s’enflammer.

Nous avons longuement cherché le vol le moins cher en fonction de l’aéroport d’arrivée et la date de départ. Yogyakarta dispose d’un aéroport, mais le prix du vol était d’environ 100€/pp entre le 14 et le 20 juin, alors que le vol KL-Jakarta coûtait à peine 35€/pp (suppléments bagages de 20kg et 25 kg inclus) le 15 juin. Prendre l’avion vers Jakarta et ensuite un bus/train vers Yogyakarta coûte moins cher qu’un vol direct!

Nous avons donc réservé nos sièges le 15 juin pour 35€/pp avec AirAsia, grâce à l’app Skyscanner.

Lire la suite « A) De la Malaisie à l’Indonésie (Version en Français) »

Publicités

Bilan Malaisie : Mélange de cultures et de saveurs

Administratif

  • Visa (Tourisme): Pas de visa pour un séjour de moins de 90 jours, valable sur le continent et l’île de Bornéo
  • Monnaie: Malaysian Ringgitt (MYR), 1€ ~ 5 MYR (4,7 en 2018)
  • Frais bancaires généraux: Les banques « HSBC » vous permettent de retirer de 1500 MYR (~300€) à 5000 MYR (~1000€), sans frais
  • Langue: Hindou, Chinois (Cantonnais et Mandarin), Malay et dialectes, Anglais, …

Notre itinéraire


Période et durée de notre séjour

10/05/2018 – 15/06/2018 ; 36 jours


Nos meilleures photos

Penang Street art
Street art, Penang
fort cornwallis penang georgetown
Fort Cornwallis, Penang
Penang Hill georgetown
Colline de Penang et vue sur Georgetown
Plantations de thé, Cameron Highlands tea plantations
Plantations de thé, Cameron Highlands
IMG_20180513_101710
Mossy Forest, Cameron Highlands
Canopy walk Teman Negara (1)
Canopy walk, Tean Negara
Viewpoint Terisek (1)
Terisek Hill, Teman Negara
Chemin de trek Teman Negara (2)
Trek dans la jungle, Teman Negara
Chemin de trek Teman Negara (6)
Un des chemins aux sangsues, Teman Negara
Sangsues (1)
Sangsue, Teman Negara
Wantan mee (1)-min
Wantan mee, Kuala Lumpur (KL)
Rice noodles-min
Chee Chong Fun – Nouilles de riz, sauce soja, graines de sésame
Ondeh Ondeh
Ondeh Ondeh – boules de pâte de riz saupoudrées de noix de coco râpée et fourrées au sucre de palme. Je chercherai la recette dès qu’on a un nouveau chez nous pour en faire 😀
Aftermeal
Repas entre amis, KL
IMG_7208
Puce de lit, KL
Queenie larvae migrant
Larve migrante, KL
Batu caves (1)
Batu Caves, KL
Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (4)
Tours Petronas, KL
Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (5)
Centre des affaires, KL
Merdeka Square (3)
Merdeka Square, KL
Mosquée nationale (1)
Mosquée Nationale, KL
Petaling Street (1)
Petaling Street, KL
Perdana Botanical Gardens (5)
Jardins botaniques de Perdana, KL

Budget global et moyen pour deux personnes

  • Admission (Fort, forêts/jungles et parcs, toilettes publiques) : 31€ (4,5€/pp Fort, 10,5€/pp forêts/jungles et parcs, 0,5€/pp toilettes publiques)
  • Transport (Bus et métro) : 110€ (52€/pp bus et 3€/pp métro à KL)
  • Food : 438€ (1,5€/pp pour un plat, 0,5€/boisson, comptez environ 6€/pp par jour)
  • Hôtel : 379€ (10-12€/chambre la nuit, parfois avec sdb privée)
  • Tips (frais bancaires de notre banque belge): 5€
  • Autres (médecin, cartes SIM, cinéma, shopping, lessive, …) : 80€ (17,5€/pp médecin, 5€/pp cartes SIM, 4,5€/pp cinéma, 6€/pp Shopping, 2€/pp poudre à  lessiver (*), …)

Budget global : 1043€

Budget moyen par jour pour deux personnes : 29€

(*) Généralement, il est plutôt difficile de pouvoir faire la lessive soi-même en Malaisie car les guesthouses ne disposent pas d’espace dédié pour les clients. La réception propose généralement des services de nettoyage + séchage pour environ 5-8 MYR/kg (1-1,5€/kg), ce qui revient assez cher au bout du compte (comptez environ 15-20€/pp par mois si vous prenez ces services, alors que la poudre à lessiver ne coûte même pas 1€ et que vous tenez plusieurs semaines avec la quantité achetée). Ils ne comprennent pas que cela peut être cher pour vous, même si vous leur expliquez que vous êtes backpacker, que vous voyagez depuis déjà un an et que vous n’avez plus d’emploi. « Les Européens sont riches » est ici encore la réponse que beaucoup de gens ont sur le cœur…


 Nos impressions générales

  • + + :
    • Villes très cosmopolites : mélange de culture Chinoise, Indienne, Malaise et Occidentale
    • Les différentes cultures du pays apportent une grande richesse, tant au niveau des croyances, que de la nourriture, de l’économie et des langues
    • Retour des saveurs chinoises, avec notamment les plats à base de sauce soja
    • Anglais très courant, même dans les petites échoppes de rue
    • Population accueillante
    • Peu d’arnaques
  • – – :
    • Hôtels généralement plus chers qu’ailleurs en Asie, pour moins de service (10€/nuit pour une chambre sans salle de bain)
    • Retour des saveurs indiennes, avec les odeurs d’épices
    • Sangsues dans la jungle
    • Puces de lit à Kuala Lumpur
    • Larves migrantes
    • Moustiques noirs à taches blanches (piqûres plus douloureuses)
    • Beaucoup de pluie et chaleur tropicale :p

Nos conclusions

La Malaisie est un très beau pays et les gens sont très accueillants. C’est une destination dont on n’entend presque jamais parler en Europe, mais à tort!

Nous garderons principalement en mémoire la nourriture qui nous a rappelé nos deux mois passés en Chine au début du voyage, notre rencontre avec nos amis Malays: Selina, Geink et Kent et enfin les sangsues et les puces de lit.

Nous regrettons un peu de ne pas avoir visité l’île de Bornéo, contrairement à ce que nous avions prévu car nous avons rencontré plusieurs locaux qui nous ont prévenu du coût élevé des treks sur l’île. Avec la Birmanie et le Vietnam, nous aurons une raison de plus de revenir en Asie dans le futur 😀

La ville de Georgetown sur l’île de Penang vaut le coup d’œil, pour ses « street arts » et le petit trail pour monter sur la colline de Penang est plutôt sympa.

Les Cameron Highlands nous ont beaucoup rappelé notre séjour à Ooty, en Inde, mais la Mossy Forest apporte son petit plus. Il y a également quelques treks possibles dans la jungle, sans guide, mais comme nous allions à Teman Negara juste après, nous avions décidé de les zapper :p

Teman Negara, son trail dans la jungle et sa canopy walk resteront un beau souvenir de notre séjour, mais nous garderons surtout en mémoire les centaines de sangsues 😀

Nous sommes restés beaucoup plus longtemps que prévu dans la capitale, Kuala Lumpur, malgré les puces de lit, les moustiques et la larve migrante de Queenie (:p) et nous avons bien aimé l’ambiance calme de la ville, du côté de Petaling Street. Certains quartiers sont cools et tranquilles, avec d’immenses parcs en pleins centre-ville (ceux que nous avons préféré), alors que d’autres ressemblent plutôt à Hong Kong, avec les hauts buildings, les magasins chics et sont beaucoup plus bruyants et animés.

 

D) Kuala Lumpur (EN)

16/05/2018 – 15/06/2018

 

Capital city of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur (Wikipedia link here if you want to know more) is one of the fastest developping cities in South-east Asia, from a demographic and economic point of view.

 


Transport from Teman Negara

As we told in our previous post about Teman Negara, we took a local bus to Jerantut (7 MYR/pp (1,5€)), then another bus from Jerantut to Kuala Lumpur (18 MYR/pp (4€)).

 


Transports in town

  • « GoKL » free buses (See GOKL app on Google Play/Apple store)
  • « RapidKL » buses (not free, but cover a wider area)
  • Monorail « LRT »
  • « MRT » Subway
  • Plane (KL International Airport – KLIA)
  • Shuttle bus to KLIA (12 MYR/pp)

 


Food

Typical dishes (Chinese and Malay)

Bami goreng-min
Bami goreng – Vegetables fried noodles
Black pepper beef-min
Black pepper rice chicken
Fried Kueh Teow Egg-min
Fried Kueh Teow Telur – Fired noodles eggs
Fried rice and egg-min
Fried rice eggs
Hokkien mee-min
Hokkien Noodles – Egg fried noodles with veggies and fried prok
Kueh Teow and Chinese mushrooms-min
Fried Kueh Teow with Chinese mushrooms – Fired Kueh Teow noodles (large ones) with pork and Chinese mushrooms
Nasi Goreng-min
Nasi Goreng – Fried rice with spices and veggies
Pork belly soup-min
Fried pork belly, marinated in soy sauce
Rice porridge (1)-min
Rice porridge
Rice porridge (2)-min
Rice porridge with steam pork and raw egg
Takoyaki Chicken-min
Japanese Takoyaki – Paste balls generally filled with octopus in Japan, here stuffed with chicken
Takoyaki-min
Takoyakis engine 😀
Wantan mee (1)-min
Wantan Mee – Egg noodles with dark soy sauce, fried pork
Wantan mee (2)-min
Another version of Wantan mee, with a bowl of traditional raviolis « Wonton »
Rice noodles-min
Chee Chong Fun – Rice noodles, soy sauce and sesame seeds
Tonkatsu-min
Tonkatsu rice – Japanese style fried pork, with rice in soy sauce and fried egg

 

Typical desserts

Bubur Pulut Hitam
Bubur Pulut Hitam – Coconut milk soup and red beans paste
Ondeh Ondeh
Ondeh Ondeh – Rice dough stuffed with brown palm sugar, sprinkled with grated coconut. I am definitely going to try this one at home, wherever that will be 😀
Other malaysian desserts (1)
Similar to Ondeh ondeh
Other malaysian desserts (2)
Chinese churros!
Other malaysian desserts (3)
Taro custard in soy sauce. Taro is atropical root vegetable, with a taste close to sweet potato

Aftermeal

Typical drinks

Drinks in a bag-min
Malaysian style drinks, served in plastic bags, with a straw. Black milk tea for Queenie and Nicolas and iced black coffee for me 😀
Keladi syrup-min
Keladi (Taro) iced syrup (Wikilink over here). Original, but wonderful!
LENG CHEE KANG-min
Leng Chee Kang – Iced/Hot soup made with lotus seeds, eggs, vegetables and oats
Mango-dragonfruit shake-min
Mango/Dragonfruit shake

Accomodations

We stayed at the Oasis guesthouse, then the Longhouse Guesthouse and eventually the Hotel City Inn, since we found bed bugs at the first two places we stayed at after a couple of nights. We bargained a lot, since hotels officially allowed by the government are entitled to collect 10% tax from each visitor. Some of them also add a 6% GST tax, which then add quite a sum to the price a night. Most guesthouses have private rooms with AC, shared bathrooms for 50 MYR/night (10€) and hotels are more expensive, with their 16% total taxes. We bargained at the Hotel City Inn and since we wanted to stay for, like, several weeks, they accepted to give us a nice room with AC, private bathroom and shared balcony (I was the only one using it to hang laundry though) for 50 MYR/night (10€).

Well, let’s get back to our bed bugs problems. Crazy insects right? It was our first encounter and we heard crazy stories about them. Just check it out on the web and you might even lose you sleep. We still don’t know why here in KL especially. Some people told us they were brought by tourists! Well, I gotta say that we stayed at filthy places in Asia, with cockroaches and everything, but we never saw these little monsters anywhere else so far! Here is a picture if you want to see what I’m talking about:

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Adult bed bug

After the bed bugs and the leeches, we still were surprised to have another visitor in our intimacy, hereby named migrant larvae!

Queene had the great pleasure to find herself infected with one in her foot one week ago. Migrant larvae are little worms digging right under your skin. It’s quite easy to get rid of them, but it can be frightening since they move from 5mm to 1cm a day. If that’s not enough to make yu throw up, I suggest you check out Google on this link.

 

Queenie larvae migrant
Our small migrant larvae 😀

 


Activities

  • Batu Caves
  • Merdeka Square
  • Petronas twin towers and business centre
  • Perdana Botanical Gardens
    • Medicinal plants garden
    • Butterfly gardens
    • Birds gardens
  • National monument

 


Tips

Decathlon : There is one in the Kepong district, northeast of KL.

Option 1: Bus, 1h, 3 MYR/pp (0,6€)

Take bus 103. One of its stops is located at « Pudu Sentral ». We added the location on maps.me under the name « Bus 103 to Kelab Sri Damansara (Decathlon 8trium) ». You have to ask to the driver to drop you off at 8trium or « Kelab Sri Damansara ». He will get you in front of the Decathlon, on the speedway.

Option 2: Subway + Free Bus, 1h, 3,90 MYR/pp (0,8€)

  1. Line 9 MTR, heading to Sungai Buloh. Get off at « Mutiara Damansara »
  2. Free Bus PJ106 to 8trium

We chose option 1 to get there and option 2 on the way back, since we could not manage to find the bus 103 over there…

 


Pictures

Batu caves (1)
Batu caves, with our Malaysian friends, Selina Lee et Geink Noise. We have met them in China back in November 2017 and and was so nice to them to show us around in KL! Thanks a lot!

Batu caves (2)

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (1)
KL business entre (KLCC)

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (2)

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (3)

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (4)
Petronas Twin Towers

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (5)

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (6)

KL (4)
Pavillon, Commercial centre with its shopping malls and expensive restaurants
KL (5)
Pavillon designed buildings

 

Merdeka Square (3)
« Merdeka Square » pictures – Wikilink here
Monument National (1)
National Monument celebrating the Malaysian Independance

Monument National (2)

Monument National (3)

Mosquée nationale (1)
National Mosque

Mosquée nationale (3)

Petaling Street (1)
Petaling Street, Chinatown

Petaling Street (2)

River KL
KL river, lights out at night
Perdana Botanical Gardens (7)
Perdana Botanical Gardens

Perdana Botanical Gardens (5)

Perdana Botanical Gardens (4)

Perdana Botanical Gardens (3)

Perdana Botanical Gardens (2)

IMG_7815
Tropical rain in the monsoon season :p

 


Next step

Before we left Belgium, we intended to visit Borneo island for trekking in jungles and mountains. However, we have met locals who told us that we had to take guides through tours and then obviously expensive. We decided to stay here longer and wait for the Ramadan to end (13/05/2018 – 14/06/2018), before heading for Yogyakarta in Indonesia!

 

 

 

 

C) Taman Negara (EN)

14/05/2018 – 16/05/2018

 

A few words about the area

Taman Negara in Malay, or National park in English, is one of the oldest deciduous forests in the world, which is estimated to be 130 millions years old and spreading over more than 4000 km² in the centre of Malaysia.

The park entrance can be reached through Kuala Tahan town, that we can separate into two parts:

  • Town side, gathering all guesthouses, cheap restaurants and shops and « Danz Resort » with its campsite (without infrastructure)
  • Park side, with the « Hanz Rainforest Resort » and its campsite with infrastructures (showers, toilets and a basic kitchen)

 


Transport from the Cameron Highlands

There are at least two possibilities to get to the park, from the Cameron Highlands:

  • By bus through Jerantut town (4h30 Tenah Rata – Jerantut and 2h Jerantut – Kuala Tahan)
  • By bus+boat through Kuala Retang (4h Tenah Rata – Kuala Retang by bus, 1h30 lunch break and 3h by boat from Kuala Retang – Kuala Tahan)

As we said in our post about the Cameron Highlands, we were not told/did not know anything about the first possibility through Jerantut and chose the second option. We negotiated the trip at the « Unititi » travel agency for 60 MYR/pp (13€), departure at 8AM (but there was another one at 10AM).

Whatever option you choose, your transport will drop you off on the town side.

Kuala Tahan
Kuala Tahan town, where all cheap restaurants and guesthouses are located

 


Available transports in town

 Kuala Tahan is a small town with very few public transportation aside taxi-boats :p

« Taxi-boats » can get you from one side of the river to the other, for only 1 MYR/pp (0,20€).

 


Food

Both restaurant and shop besides the Hanz Rainforest resort are expensive compared with town side. Crossing the river (1 MYR/pp) and eating for 5,5 MYR/pp (1,20€) is cheaper than eating there, where the same dish is four times that price!

IMG_20180516_090848
Malaysian breakfast: Steamed rice, peanuts, fried eggs, cucumbers, dried fish and onions spicy sauuce (served in one of the cheap restaurants in town)

 


Accomodations

Three choices available:

  • Han Rainforest Resort and Danz Resort (180 to 350 MYR/night – 40 to 75€)
  • Guesthouses (80 MYR/night – 17€)
  • Camping (10 MYR/pp per night – 2€)
IMG_6475
Our campsite, behnd the Han Rainforest Resort
IMG_20180515_160222
We were not alone in the campsite as it was right at the entrance of the jungle 😀

 


Laundry

As usual, many guesthouses offer their laundry services for a similar price (see our posts about Penang and the Cameron Highlands)

 


Activities

  • Canopy walk & trek to Bukit (Hill) Terisek (40 MYR/pp – 8,50€)
  • Night jungle walk (30 MYR/pp – 6,50€)
  • Night Safari (45 MYR/pp – 10€)
  • Rapid shooting – Boat ride in river « rapids » (45 MYR/pp – 10€)
  • Local Orang Asli village (45 MYR/pp – 10€)

All those prices are what travel agencies display, but it’s possible to trek on your own, without any guide on some of the trails. We followed the one linking the canopy walkTerisek Hill, Lubuk Simpon « beach » and finally back to our campsite and it took us about 3 hours. We had maps.me, but honestly you can’t miss the trail as most of the time there are wood/metal planks or leeches to show you the way. Just follow the leeches guys!

 


Canopy walk

Canopy walk Teman Negara (1)

Canopy walk Teman Negara (2)

Canopy walk Teman Negara (3)
The highest point is 45 meters above ground

Canopy walk Teman Negara (4)

Canopy walk Teman Negara (5)

Canopy walk Teman Negara (6)

Canopy walk Teman Negara (7)

Canopy walk Teman Negara (8)

 

Jungle trek (Bukit Terisek – Lubuk Simpon)

Resort
Han Rainforest Resort bungalows
Chemin de trek Teman Negara (1)
Easy path

Chemin de trek Teman Negara (3)

Viewpoint Terisek (1)
Viewpoints on Terisek Hill

Viewpoint Terisek (2)

Viewpoint Terisek (3)

Chemin de trek Teman Negara (2)
That part was more of a nature trail and a lot funnier 😀

Chemin de trek Teman Negara (4)

Chemin de trek Teman Negara (5)
See all those dead leaves? Just imagine hundreds of leeches waiting for preys on them !
Chemin de trek Teman Negara (6)
Same here. We removed dozens of them trying to enter our shoes, socks and pants… There were so many of them!!
Sangsues (1)
Here you can see one of those we missed 😀
Sangsue à jeun
Hope you can see one of the unfed leeches (within the red circle). Looks like a twig right?
Sangsues (2)
A well fed leech… There was a sign saying « don’t feed the animals », but it was against our will 😀

Teman Negara will remain as a nice souvenir, even with leeches, the two thunderstorms/rainstorms we had the two nights we were there (it’s already monsoon season here) and the campsite basic, not well maintained infrastructures. However, we had the opportunity to check that our Decathon tent was waterproof and could sustain tropical showers 😀 Jungle trekking is nice here and it’s safe to get in there alone, in definite trails.

 


Next step

We will now head for Malaysia’s capital city, Kuala Lumpur. There are several travel agencies on town’s side who will sell you the ride in minivan for 75 MYR/pp (16€) (same price as in Kuala Retang, where we took the boat to Kuala Tahan), but there is also another option, way cheaper, by local bus to Jerantut (no need to book, just get on when it comes, twice a day (10AM and 5PM), at the location pinpointed on maps.me). Price is set at 7 MYR/pp (1,5€) and will get you to the Jerantut Bus terminal, where you can catch another bus to Kuala Lumpur for 18 MYR/pp (4€). We definitely enjoyed spending 25 MYR/pp (5,5€) in total, three times less than what travel agencies sell…

Unfortunately, I can’t say anything about the second bus schedule because we got one that was about to leave right when we got to Jerantut, but there should definitely be several buses a day to the capital.

B) Cameron Highlands (EN)

12/05/2018 – 14/05/2018

 

A few words about the area

Hill station in central Malaysia, the Cameron Highlands are famous for their tea plantations, run by the BOH company. Local tea is called « Palace Supreme ». If you remember our trip to India, what comes next will bring back memories about Ooty.

There are many different teas: white, green, red, Oolong (Chinese), black, which can be put down to the process and the leaves maturity (1) instead of different plants (2), as we might think.

(1) Malay black tea is produced through the following process:

  1. Cut and harvest (see below)
  2. Controlled dry, to develop flavors
  3. Rolling to release flavors
  4. Oxydizing/fermenting to change flavors (this operation lends leves to their copper tone)
  5. Air drying at 100°C to stop the oxydizing/fermenting process
  6. Sieving to separate all grades
  7. Packing

(1) BOH produces black tea, which means that the last four leaves are harvested (see further) and used. Hence, harvesting can be completed by pruning bushes on a definite thickness. Workers can use hedge trimmer / shears in opposition with workers in Ooty, India where they have to harvest manually, since they produce white/green tea. From a general point of view, they earn 24 MYR/day (5€) upon harvesting 1200kg in a month and that of the cleaners is 7 MYR/h (1,5€). Cleaners job consists in trimming bushes to control their growth. Urea fertilization twice a year by plane.

We stayed in Tenah Rata, one of the few towns in the area. Its name literally means « Flat land », due to its location in a relatively flat area within the hills. The town is located 1,440 meters above sea level

Difference Green tea, white tea, black te, red tea and oolong tea
Difference between white/green tea (1), red (1 and 2), Oolong (1 to 3) and black (all 4)
IMG_5836
Tea plantations of BOH company, in Tanah Rata

 


Transport from Penang

We booked a bus at « Grassland Travel » travel agency, close to the Komtar bus station in Penang for 40 MYR/pp (8€).

 


Available transports in town

  • Taxi
  • Local bus

 


Food

There are many restaurants and street food stands in Tenah Rata, in the same street as the bus station (see « Excellent Food Centre » on maps.me).

IMG_6397
Fried Kway Teow mee – Egg fried noodles
IMG_20180513_201747
Nasi Goreng – Fried rice in soy sauce and basil leaves
IMG_20180513_195345
Murtabak – Pancacke stuffed with curry and chicken
IMG_6393
Peyek – Indian biscuits with peanuts and spices

 


Accomodations

We stayed at the « De Cameron Guesthouse« , in front of the Bus station, negotiated at 52,50 MYR/night (10€) for a private room with shared bathroom and Indian breakfast included (roti, king of pancake, with dhal (lentils soup)). We did not book anything beforehand because there was not any room under 100 MYR/night (20€) on Bookings.com.

 


Laundry

  • Guesthouses : 5 MYR/kg (1€/kg)
  • Washing machines in the street close to the « BB Inn Hotel » : 7 MYR/10kg (1,50€)

 


Activities

  • Jungle trekking (2-3 hours) – Trails from 1 to 10 are on maps.me
  • Rafflesia experience, search for the biggest flower in the world
  • Tea plantations and BOH manufacture
  • Butterfly farm (*)
  • Strawaberries farm (*)
  • Orchids farm (*)
  • Roses farm (*)
  • Bees farm (*)
  • Mossy Forest (old forest with trees covered with moss)
  • Gunung Brichang (Brichang Mountain)
  • Parit and Robinson waterfalls

Depending on your budget, the time you have at your disposal and what you want to see, you can either go on your own (we did not, but we saw a few people going to the Mossy forest and tea plantations on their own) or book thruogh any travel agency in town. Prices range are from 25-60 MYR/pp (5-12€) for a half day, 75-100 MYR/pp (15-20€) for a whole day, to 350 MYR/pp (70€) for a two days jungle trekking with jungle overnight stay. All of these prices are negotiable, but it’s a pain in the ass to get even a 5 MYR/pp discount.

Tips: We booked both transportation to Taman Negara and a half day activity (Mossy Forest+Gunung Brichang+Tea plantations+BOH manufacture) at the same place and managed to get a discount for both of them. We paid 60 MYR/pp for the transport to TN and 40 MYR/pp for the activity package.

(*) Entrance fees are never included in the package and cost 7 MYR/pp on average for each farm.

 


Pictures

IMG_5824
BOH Tea plantations

IMG_6163

IMG_6205

IMG_6289

IMG_6338

IMG_20180513_100411
Camfer leaves, used in traditional medicine as pain relief
IMG_6278
Small lizard 😀
IMG_5964
Mossy Forest, ancient forest with trees covered in moss
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Doesn’t it look like The Lord of the Rings?

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Next step

We will now head for Taman Negara National Park. We will travel by bus+boat at the « Unititi » travel agency within Tenah Rata bus station and we negotiated our seats at 60 MYR/pp (12€). We chose to depart at 8AM (there is a second departure at 10AM) and the trip is supposed to last around 7 hours (4 hours by bus from Tenah Rata to Kuala Retang, lunch stop for 1h30 and 3 hours by boat to Kuala Tahan).

 

 

 

 

A) Penang (ENG)

10/05/2018 – 11/05/2018

 

Penang state is located in the north-west of Malaysia (Wikipedia link). There is an island part (called Pulau Penang – Penang island), residential, where Georgetown, its capital lies and the mainland part, which is more industrial (Wikipedia link).

Until 1786, the state belonged to its neighbour Kedah state, but the Sultan sold it to the English East India Company.

There was a massive immigration from south-east China between the 19th and the 20th centuries and the Chinese community holds now the population majority.

From its immigration history and its several communities (Click here to learn about it), Malaysia is a country where most people speak at least three languages:

  • Hindu / Mandarin (traditional Chinese) and/or Cantonese (Chinese spoken in Hong-Kong)
  • Malay and dialects (there are four main dialects)
  • English

From Belgians point of view, we can only be ashamed upon seeing all those communities, religions, traditions and languages living together without any problem!

Buddhist temples, Hindu temples and Mosques share the same streets and the secret behind this peaceful coexistence seems to  lie within the knowledge of the communities language, knowledge of English and mutual respect of religions and traditions …

 

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When we arrived in Penang, elections were on the way. Voting is not mandatory here and the previons party in power was there for about 60 years! To show you voted, authorities dipped your finger into black ink that lasted for days

 


Transport from Krabi (Thailand)

As we wrote in a previous post about Krabi (You can check it out here), we booked an air-conditioned Minivan in one of the many travel agencies for 800 THB/pp (20€), including pick up at our hotel around 6:40-7AM (actually 6:30AM) and expected arrival in Georgetown Komtar bus station around 4PM. We got a few problems in Hat Yai, as we said in our post about Krabi, but we managed to get to Penang anyway :p

 


Transports in town

  • Ferries
  • Bridges
  • Penang international Airport
  • Local Bus 2 MYR/pp (0,5€), nice, they can get you anywhere
  • Taxi
  • Tram (Penang Hill)

 


Food

Malaysian food is a mix between indian and chinese food, which makes it varied.

Restaurants and street food are all over town. Basic food, like noodles and rice are quite cheap (5-6 MYR/pp (~1€)), with drinks for 1,5-2 MYR/pp (<0,5€).

Exemples of common street food

Bouffe (1)
Fried Kway Teow mee – Large noodles, fried with vegetables and eggs (Queenie’s favorite)
Bouffe (8)
Another version of Fried Kway Teow mee, with spicy sauce aside
Bouffe (5)
Rice, minced mango, pork, cucumbers, onions and fried shrimps
Bouffe (9)
Spicy chicken with soy sauce – So hot!!
Bouffe (11)
Wantan Mee – Egg noodles in soy sauce (My favorite)
Bouffe (7)
Ice cream : Vanilla-Chocolate, bananas and peanuts

 


Accomodation

Compared with Thailand, accomodation are more expensive (twice the price for the same quality). A private room with shared bathroom will cost you about 60 to 120 MYR (12-24€), even in basic guesthouses! The cheapest accomodations seem to be located within « Little India » district.

We spend two days at the « Goodnight Café & Homestay » Guesthouse, for 60 MYR/night (12€).

 


Laundry

We could not find any street washing machines, but some guesthouses have washing machines. It would seem that ours was free of charge.

 


Activities

  • Street art (they are pinpointed on maps.me)
  • English fort of Cornwallis. Quite disappointing and expensive (20 MYR/pp – 4€), considering there is not that much left of the fort besides a few cannons and one ammunition depot.
  • Penang Hill. You have two options to get to the top:
    • On foot – Free 😀 ; 2h30-3h on the way up, 1h-1h30 on the way down (Bring headlamps if you plan on going down after dusk)
    • Tramway. 30 MYR/pp (6€) for the way up and 15 MYR/pp (3€) for the way down (PS: Expect waiting hours, as there are queues…)
  • Kek Lok Si Temple (Chinese Pagoda). We unfortunately did not have time to go there
  • Beaches on the western coast

 


Picture of Georgetown

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Chinese temple
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Street Art

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Clock Tower , close to Cornwallis Fort

 

Cornwallis Fort

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One of the 17 cannons of the Fort and its Lighthouse on the back. It became Penang’s Harbor Lighthouse, afterrenovation in 1914 and 1925

FYI, 17 cannons were captured from pirates by English army in 1808. In 1871, there were 29 in total and the famous « Sri Rambai » was among them (see later).

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Ammunition depot, built in 1814
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The famous cannon « Sri Rambai »

Traditionally, people believed that cannon had properties aiding conception. More information on the Wikipedia Link here.

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Penang Hill

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First steps and traway line

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View from above at night

 


Next step

We will take a bus to Tenah Rata, in the Cameron Highlands, famous for its tea plantations of black Malaysian tea (produced by the BOH company). Bus ticket is sold at 40 MYR/pp (8€) and there two bus/day, the first at 8AM, the other at 1PM. Depending on the traffic jam, expect at least 4 hours to get there. We were not lucky and it took us 7 hours…

 

D) Kuala Lumpur (Fr)

16/05/2018 – 15/06/2018

 

Quelques mots sur la ville

Capitale de la Malaisie, la ville de Kuala Lumpur (plus d’infos sur Wikipedia ici) figure parmi les plus grandes métropoles à fort développement démographique et économique d’Asie du Sud-est.

 


Transport depuis le parc de Teman Negara

Comme dit dans notre précédent article à propos du parc national de Teman Negara, nous avons pris un bus vers la ville de Jerantut (7 MYR/pp – 1,5€) et un deuxième depuis Jerantut vers Kuala Lumpur (18 MYR/pp – 4€). Nous avons un peu improvisé au niveau de l’organisation des transports et avons attrapé le bus vers Kuala Lumpur de justesse, mais ça nous a permis de payer au total 25 MYR/pp (5,5€) au lieu de 75 MYR/pp (16€) que nous proposait l’agence à l’endroit où nous avions pris le bateau (Kuala Retang).

 


Transports en ville

  • Bus gratuitsGoKL » (téléchargez l’app Android du même nom ;-))
  • Bus payants « RapidKL« 
  • Monorail
  • Métro« MRT« 
  • Avion (aéroport international de KL)
  • Shuttle bus vers l’aéroport international (12 MYR/pp)

 


Nourriture

Comme ailleurs en Malaisie, la nourriture est très variée avec l’influence des communautés Chinoises, Indiennes et Malaises. Comme nous sommes surtout fans de la nourriture chinoise, nous avons souvent zappé les restaurants indiens :p

Quelques photos de plats typiques

Bami goreng-min
Bami goreng – Nouilles sautées aux légumes
Black pepper beef-min
Riz et bœuf au poivre noir
Fried Kueh Teow Egg-min
Fried Kueh Teow Telur – Nouilles sautées et œufs sur le plat
Fried rice and egg-min
Riz sauté et œufs sur le plat
Hokkien mee-min
Hokkien Noodles – Nouilles aux œufs sautées aux légumes et porc frit
Kueh Teow and Chinese mushrooms-min
Fried Kueh Teow with Chinese mushrooms – Nouilles Kueh Teow (larges et plates) sautées au porc et champignons chinois
Nasi Goreng-min
Nasi Goreng – Riz sauté aux épices et légumes
Pork belly soup-min
Peau de porc frit et mariné dans de la sauce soja
Rice porridge (1)-min
Porridge de riz
Rice porridge (2)-min
Porridge de riz à la viande de porc et œuf cru
Takoyaki Chicken-min
Takoyaki japonais – Boules de pâte à crêpe ordinairement fourrés au poulpe au Japon, ici fourrés au poulet
Takoyaki-min
Le moule à takoyakis 😀
Wantan mee (1)-min
Wantan Mee – Nouilles aux œufs avec de la sauce soja épaisse et porc
Wantan mee (2)-min
Une autre version des Wantan mee, avec un bol traditionnel de raviolis chinois « Wonton »
Rice noodles-min
Chee Chong Fun – Nouilles de riz, sauce soja, graines de sésame
Tonkatsu-min
Riz et Tonkatsu – Porc frit à la japonaise, riz sauce soja et œuf sur le plat

 

Quelques photos de desserts typiques

Bubur Pulut Hitam
Bubur Pulut Hitam – Soupe de lait de coco et pâte de haricots rouges
Ondeh Ondeh
Ondeh Ondeh – boules de pâte de riz saupoudrées de noix de coco râpée et fourrées au sucre de palme. Je chercherai la recette dès qu’on a un nouveau chez nous pour en faire 😀
Other malaysian desserts (1)
Autre dessert similaire
Other malaysian desserts (2)
Churros chinois!
Other malaysian desserts (3)
Flan au taro et sauce soja. Le taro est un fruit asiatique dont le goût rappelle celui de la patate douce

Aftermeal

Quelques photos de boissons

Drinks in a bag-min
En Malaisie, les boissons sont souvent servies dans des sacs en plastiques avec une paille!  Thé noir au lait pour Queenie et Nicolas et café noir pour moi 😀
Keladi syrup-min
Thé glacé sucré à base de sirop de Keladi (taro en Malay, plus d’infos ici). Original et délicieux!
LENG CHEE KANG-min
Leng Chee Kang – Boisson sucrée aux graines de lotus, à déguster chaud, ou glacé
Mango-dragonfruit shake-min
Shake mangue-fruit du dragon

 


Logement

Nous avons logé à l’Oasis Guesthouse, la Longhouse Guesthouse et enfin à l’Hôtel City Inn, car nous avions trouvé des puces de lit dans les deux premiers endroits après une ou deux nuits. Nous n’avons été débarrassés de ces horreurs qu’à l’hôtel « City Inn », où nous nous sommes tellement plu qu’on y est resté presque 15 jours.

On ne sait pas pourquoi nous n’avons vu des puces de lit que dans cette ville car les guesthouses y sont relativement propres. Certains réceptionnistes nous ont prétendus qu’elles étaient apportées par les touristes… Nous avons pourtant logé dans des endroits bien plus crasseux sans jamais avoir de problème.

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Nos compagnons de lit les premières nuits à Kuala Lumpur, les puces de lit!

 

Add-on:

Après les sangsues et les puces de lit, nous avons fait la connaissance d’un autre animal local : les larves migrantes!

Queenie en a découvert une dans son pied il y a une semaine! Il s’agit d’un petit ver parasite qui creuse des galeries en-dessous de la peau. Il est assez facile de s’en débarrasser (trois pilules suffisent pour le faire mourir), mais il creuse quand même environ 5mm-1cm par jour! Le ver ne bouge plus, mais l’inflammation est toujours là, même si ça ne chatouille plus du tout :p

Plus d’informations sur Wikipedia ici.

Queenie larvae migrant
Notre petite larve migrante 😀 (la zone affectée a la taille d’une pièce de deux euros)

 


Activités

  • Batu Caves
  • Merdeka Square
  • Petronas twin towers et centre d’affaires
  • Jardins botaniques de Perdana
    • Jardin des plantes médicinales
    • Jardin aux papillons
    • Jardins des oiseaux
  • Monument National

 


Photos

Batu caves (1)
Notre visite aux Batu Caves avec nos amis Malaisiens, Selina Lee et Geink Noise, que nous avions rencontré en Chine en Novembre 2017!

Batu caves (2)

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (1)
Quelques photos du centre économique de Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (2)

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (3)

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (4)
Les fameuses tour Petronas!

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (5)

Kuala Centre - Petronas towers (6)

KL (4)
Pavillon, immense centre commercial avec shoppings et restaurants chics
KL (5)
Bâtiment design en face de Pavillon

 

Merdeka Square (3)
Quelques photos du « Merdeka Square » – Plus d’infos sur Wikipedia ici
Monument National (1)
Quelques photos du Monument National commémorant l’indépendance de la Malaisie

Monument National (2)

Monument National (3)

Mosquée nationale (1)
Quelques photos de la mosquée nationale

Mosquée nationale (3)

Petaling Street (1)
Petaling Street, le quartier Chinois

Petaling Street (2)

River KL
La rivière de Kuala Lumpur, illuminée le soir
Perdana Botanical Gardens (7)
Quelques photos du jardin botanique de Perdana

Perdana Botanical Gardens (5)

Perdana Botanical Gardens (4)

Perdana Botanical Gardens (3)

Perdana Botanical Gardens (2)

 

Add-on:

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Pendant la saison des moussons, quand il pleut ça ne rigole pas :p

Prochaine étape

Nous avions initialement prévu de partir vers l’île de Bornéo pour faire quelques treks dans la jungle et les montagnes, mais nous avons rencontré plusieurs Malays qui nous ont dit que que cela ne pouvait se faire qu’avec des guides ou en tours organisés. Nous avons donc préféré passer plus de temps à Kuala Lumpur et attendre la fin du Ramadan (13/05/2018 – 14/06/2018) avant de reprendre la route vers la ville de Yogyakarta en Indonésie!